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Bamboo coaster mould: thin pieces are hard to soak, so how is the spray rate set?

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  • DateDate:2026-10-19

Why is bamboo coaster mould better handled by spraying than by soaking? A coaster is thin and comes in large batches, so a whole stack goes into the tank face to face with the liquor unable to reach the middle, and the pieces come out warped at the edges. Spraying is easier: iHeir-M8 bamboo and wood fungicide at 1:20 in one even pass, air dried, and harder stock moves to iHeir-FT bamboo and wood anti-mildew powder at 1:100. This article gives the dosing rate for the spray, the racking method and the stacking rules.

1. Why coasters are awkward to soak: thin stock, large batches, warping

A coaster is a thin piece, usually a few millimetres thick and a dozen centimetres across, and that shape rules out soaking. Load a stack into the tank and the faces press together so the liquor only creeps in from the rim, leaving the middle dry; to penetrate properly the pieces have to be separated on a frame, and the labour costs more than the dip itself. Water uptake also goes up, and a thin piece that dries unevenly cups and bulges – the rejects cost more than the hours saved.

Volume adds to it. Coasters are a high-turnover item for kitchens and offices and a batch of several thousand is normal, so the dip, the draining and the racking each need floor space; spraying can run on a line, with a mesh belt carrying the pieces under a fixed gun at several times the throughput.

Appearance matters too. A coaster is looked at every day on a desk, so the grain and the shade are in front of the customer; a full dip wets the whole piece and the colour comes out a shade darker with flatter grain. A spray treats the surface, which changes the colour far less – the usual reason this kind of thin piece moves to spraying.

2. Dip against spray: the two routes compared

The table sets out where each route fits, the ratio and the points to watch, chosen by batch size and piece type.

Route Where it fits Ratio Criterion Points to watch
Spray (preferred) Thin stock, large batches, warping risk iHeir-M8 at 1:20 An even film with no runs Thin and even; a heavy pass builds up at the edges and glues pieces together
Dip (thick or small lots) Thicker stock, small quantities iHeir-M8 at 1:20, 1-10 minutes 10%-20% weight gain Separate the pieces on a frame; never dip a tight stack
Hard stock alternative Densified board, hard veneer iHeir-FT at 1:100, above 45C Section penetrated, no powder marks Dissolve the powder first; lumps leave white spots
Racking and packing – – Stack only when surface dry Single layer; stacking early glues pieces and leaves marks

The first two rows are one product used two ways, the third is the harder-stock bracket, the fourth is what happens after the spray. For most thin pieces the right combination is spray plus single-layer racking, not dip plus stacking.

3. M8 at 1:20: thin and even, never to the point of running

For spraying, iHeir-M8 bamboo and wood fungicide is diluted 1:20 (1kg of product to 20kg of water), stirred, sprayed evenly over the surface to full coverage and left to air dry. It is a clear amber liquid with a sharp acidic odour that disperses in the aqueous phase; it ships 25kg to the drum, the concentrate keeps three years, and the maximum use level is capped at 15ppm active substance.

Thin and even has to reach the operator: hold the gun 25-30cm away, keep the pass speed constant, and prefer two crossing passes to one heavy one. A uniform wet gloss is enough; spray until it runs and the material collects at the edges, drying into a dark rim the customer spots immediately. The edge of a coaster is end-grain fibre and takes water fastest, so give it an extra sweep – but do not stop the gun there.

Stir the bath before use; standing liquor throws a surface film, which is normal, and a mixed bath should be used within a month rather than left for the next one. The spray booth needs extraction and the operator needs gloves and a mask, and sprayed pieces should not be stacked until the surface is dry.

Spray line: bamboo coasters laid flat on a stainless mesh belt moving forward, a spray gun sweeping across them from above with gaps left between pieces
Thin stock goes through the spray line: two crossing passes, thin and even, an extra sweep at the edge – runs build up material in the corners

4. FT at 1:100 for hard stock

iHeir-FT bamboo and wood anti-mildew powder is graded by material: 1:200 for open stock, 1:100 for hard stock, 1:500 for food-contact chopsticks, all most effective above 45C. Where a coaster is densified board or hard veneer, the additive does not penetrate easily, so 1:100 dissolved in hot water and then sprayed or brushed holds up better than 1:200.

Powder through a spray gun needs two steps: dissolve it in water above 45C, pass it through a filter, then fill the bottle – undissolved grains block the nozzle and leave white spots on the face. A finished piece should show no powder mark; a mark means the bath was too strong or not fully dissolved, and the customer feels it with one finger. The bath is reusable, packing is 30kg to the drum with a three-year shelf life, and the powder must be kept dry so it does not cake.

How to split the two: ordinary bamboo coasters go through M8 spray, simple to run and quick to dry; hard stock, densified pieces, or a customer asking for a higher anti-mould rating go through FT at 1:100. Do not run both in one batch – the surface colour will not match and rework costs more.

Drying area: sprayed coasters spread in a single layer on racks, each one separate so the edges do not overlap
Single layer is not optional: stacked wet pieces glue together, leave marks, and print the edge build-up onto the next piece

5. Racking and stacking: avoiding glued pieces and built-up edges

Sprayed coasters go on the rack in a single layer with a finger-width gap so the edges dry too, on a mesh or slatted surface that lets air underneath. In summer a few hours in still air is enough; in the rainy season or on a grey day they go into the drying room, but keep the temperature moderate – thin stock heats fast and cups when it is pushed.

Stacking waits for the surface to dry. The test is the back of a finger: no tack, no shine at the edge. Stack early and the pieces stick, the separation leaves marks, and in bad cases takes the sprayed layer with it. Pack ten to a pile with a paper band, add an anti-mould sheet to the carton, ship oldest first, and open the cartons against the wall before and after the rainy season to check for damp.

Finished stacks: coasters stacked ten to a pile with a paper band around each pile, packed neatly into cartons
Stacking assumes a dry surface: no tack under the finger, then band and carton, with an anti-mould sheet inside

6. Questions: is one face enough, and how soon can they be packed

Is spraying the face only enough? No. A coaster is used on both sides, the back sits on a desk where condensation forms just the same, and treating one face only leaves the two sides taking water at different rates, which makes the piece cup harder. Spray both, a lighter pass on the back, but full coverage.

How long before packing? Judge by the surface, not by the clock. Once the back of a finger comes away clean and the edge has lost its shine, the pieces can be stacked; in the rainy season use the drying room, and let them cool to room temperature before bagging, because bagging warm pieces condenses water inside. Do not try to rescue a mouldy coaster with another pass – the stain stays in the fibre and the colour comes out uneven, so sorting it out as a downgrade is cheaper. Samples and a TDS are available for both products.

Four closing figures: ordinary bamboo coasters at iHeir-M8 1:20, two crossing passes, thin and even, an extra sweep at the edge; hard or densified stock at iHeir-FT 1:100, above 45C, dissolved and filtered first; sprayed pieces racked in a single layer until surface dry, then stacked with an anti-mould sheet in the carton; and stock shipped oldest first, with the cartons against the wall checked before and after the rainy season.



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